Visiting Vashlovani National Park – A paradise of flora and fauna

The name Vashlovani comes from the Georgian word vashli, meaning apple, but you won’t find apple orchards in this southeastern Georgian National Park. Instead, you’ll see fields of twisty, squat pistachio trees, sprawling glens covered in gently waving feather grass, and plunging canyon walls studded with maritime fossils—a tangible reminder of how this part of Georgia used to be at the bottom of an ancient sea.

The unique flora and touchable, hikable history are two key reasons to make the trek to this fantastic place, which sits right on the border of Georgia and Azerbaijan; it’s also a paradise for wildlife. In 2022, UNESCO recognized the Dedoplistakro Biosphere Reserve for its incredible biodiversity, including 90 bird, 52 mammal, and 30 reptile species.

Getting to Vashlovani

The easiest way to get to Vashlovani is by car, although you can also take a marshrutka, or minivan, from Tbilisi to Sighnaghi and travel the rest of the way to Dedoplistskaro by taxi. Dedoplistskaro is the closest town to Vaslovani National Park and a great place to spend the night before setting off bright and early the next day.

You’ll need a vehicle with four-wheel drive in the park. Most of the roads and trails aren’t paved, and you will find yourself crossing dry riverbeds, bouncing along the canyon floor, and occasionally fording a stream or two. If you’re not up for the varsity-level challenge, hire a driver. Not only will they be able to help you get around the park, but most drivers are extremely knowledgeable about the area and make great guides.

Biomes and biodiversity

Vashlovani National Park is massive, spanning 353 square kilometers (136 square miles), and contains five distinct biomes: semi-desert steppe, deciduous forest, arid sparse forest, desert, and semidesert. You can explore much of it on foot or by vehicle, but there are protected areas where it’s absolutely forbidden to hike. These spots are for Vashlovani’s elusive animals, like the Caucasian leopard, which was last seen by human eyes in 2009 but is believed to be roaming the deepest and wildest parts of the park.

The winter months are a great time to see migratory birds of prey, like the Griffon Vulture and Steppe Eagle. Find these animals in places like Eagle Canyon, a moderately difficult loop trail that offers amazing views of the gorge. Keep your eyes peeled for larks and quail in the grasslands and steppe areas, and water birds like the Dalmatian Pelican near the Alazani floodplain. If you camp at Minjinskure, you’ll have the opportunity to spot all manner of river birds surveying the Alazani River and swooping down for fish.

One of the most exciting creatures to try to spy in Vashlovani is the gazelle. These animals were hunted to the point of near-extinction but are now flourishing in the steppe near Minjinskure. Keep a watch for movement on the horizon and the telltale snowy rear ends of prancing gazelle. If you have binoculars, now is a great time to use them.

Other animals include the striped hyena, found in the pistachio forests, brown bears, grey wolves, and the Lebetine viper, the most venomous snake in Georgia. Fortunately, in addition to the Caucasian Leopard, Vashlovani is home to smaller felines, which prowl the campsites near Minjinskure and keep the snakes at bay.

Staying off the grid

It’s advisable to spend a few days in Vashlovani National Park so you can take your time hiking and exploring. Minjinskure Campsite is an ideal place to pitch a tent. You can also stay in a bungalow with bunk beds, a kitchenette, and bathroom facilities.

Minjinskure is a fairly well-appointed campsite with running water, electricity, picnic tables, and plenty of flat places to set up camp. If you want to make a bonfire, you need to bring your own wood, as it’s strictly forbidden to collect wood from Vashlovani. Cell phone service is spotty—or nonexistent—virtually anywhere in the park, but there’s a small wooden stand right near the ranger station close to Minjinskure, where you can supposedly get reception. The trick is to position your phone so it’s facing the proper angle, then check the bars. Spending the night in Minjinskure allows you to have a leisurely drive back, maybe even stopping at the mud volcanoes on the border of Georgia and Azerbaijan before hitting the road back to Tbilisi.