Mestia to Ushguli – Everything you need to know about Svaneti’s most popular hiking route
The sky-high hiking trail from Mestia to Ushguli is one of Georgia’s most popular and picturesque routes, with locals and visitors alike making the four-day jaunt every hiking season between mid-May and October. While the trek is challenging, it’s fairly approachable if you have a good pair of hiking boots, poles, some emergency cash, and an optimistic disposition.
You’ll also find plenty of red and white striped trail markers and yellow signs along the trail—though there are a few sections where you need to follow unmarked cow paths, particularly on the third day. Although there aren’t as many sheep-herding dogs as in Tusheti, hikers can still cross paths with Caucasian Shepherds on the job in the rural stretches between Svan villages.
Preparing for Your Trek
The total trek is 35.2 miles, spread over four days, or three if you feel extra fit and ambitious. While you don’t need to be an elite athlete to successfully complete the four-day trek, a baseline of endurance and fitness will serve you well on those long slogs between villages. Also, this region of Georgia is at a higher altitude, at 1,500 meters in Mestia and 2,200 meters in Ushguli. Take your time and let your body adjust to the thinner air.
You’ll also need to stock up on cash or any needed supplies in Mestia. There are several stores that sell rain gear, hiking poles, and outdoor gear, as well as a handful of banks. Make sure to take out cash at an ATM while there, as you won’t find one along the route.
You can also pick up hiking maps at the marshrutka station on Mestia’s main street. If you’re coming from Zugdidi by marshrutka, the van will drop you off there, so you can pick up a map when you arrive. The other option is flying in through Vanilla Sky. Flights run a few times a week and sell out quickly, so make sure you book in advance—particularly during the high season.
Before you hit the road again, Mestia is also a great place to get a good, authentic Svan meal. Cafe Leila and Lile Restaurant are excellent options for kubdari, a Svan meat-based variation on khachapuri.
Hitting the Trail
Most people start their journey in Mestia, because it’s an easy place to get to by marshrutka or flight, and you can stock up on supplies there. You can also do it backwards and start from Ushguli, for a comparably easier downhill hike, although you’ll need to get all of your gear and money before arriving in Ushguli, as there are no banks or ATMs there.
Day One
If you decide to start in Mestia, your first day will be spent heading to Chvabiani. You’ll start strong with 2,486 feet of elevation gain, and spot Ushba towering over the trail on the way.
Top Tip: Keep your eyes peeled for a cafe about six kilometers in. It’s not on Google Maps, but if you stay on the trail, you can’t miss it, and the views are spectacular.
Day Two
This day starts with a grueling 850-meter trek up the mountain straight away. At the top of the ridge, you’ll find lovely alpine flowers, clusters of berries, and beautiful views of Svaneti.
Top Tip: There are some switchbacks as you cross down into Adishi. The path is fairly well-marked, but your offline or paper map will be handy here.
Day Three
Day three brings challenging climbs, stunning views of the Adishi glacier, and a lovely wander through the Chkhutnieri Pass. You’ll also need to cross the glacially fed Adishi River at the outset of the day, which can be both chilly and tricky. If you opt to do the trail backwards, from Ushguli to Mestia, you’ll arrive at the Adishi River during the day, when the water level is higher.
Top Tip: Several horses and their handlers are waiting on the riverbanks, ready to take you across the river.
Day Four
Your last day starts in either Khalde or Iprali and continues to Ushguli. This leg has some technical elements, like climbing up a ladder, and trekking upwards for 2,100 meters, but you’ll enjoy glorious views of the valley as you make your way down to Ushguli.
Top Tip: Grab a delicious bite at Guesthouse Cafe Nita before returning to Mestia on the marshrutka.