The supra table: Georgia’s sacred historical feast
Nothing blends Georgia’s deep history of hospitality, wine culture, storytelling, and song quite like the traditional supra table. These massive traditional feasts often stretch for hours, with dozens of elaborate toasts, plates of food stacked high, and wine glasses that never seem to empty. The tamada, or toastmaster, emcees the evening, timing and personalizing each toast, and sometimes guests are treated to additional surprises like authentic dance and polyphonic singing.
Modern supras have their roots in ancient tradition, and UNESCO considers them intangible cultural heritage. It is a great honor to attend one of these gatherings and gives you a unique peek into how the fabric of food and tradition blends together in Georgia.
Supra history
Supra is the Georgian word for tablecloth, and, fittingly, many supra tables are draped in blue and white patterned cloths for the occasion. Supra traditions pre-date Christianity as far back as the 7th-century B.C.E., but modern festivities acknowledge God and peace in the first toast. Supras can be special-occasion feasts for birthdays and weddings, annual celebrations to ring in the new grape harvest, or simply ‘just because’ events for family and friends.
If you’re invited to a supra, prepare to be there all night and arrive hungry. They last for hours, and the food and wine will just keep coming. Some supras feature Georgian polyphonic singing, another UNESCO intangible cultural heritage, with multiple pitches and vocal parts and several melodic lines.
The tamada
The tamada sets the tone for the entire evening, timing and tailoring the toasts for the audience and dictating how long the supra will go. They’re usually an elder and revered storyteller tasked with regaling guests with the standard toasts and then improvising or yielding the floor for additional ones. Toasts always include God, peace, Georgia, parents, children, the deceased, friends, and an acknowledgment of the occasion.
Popular supra dishes
No matter how big your appetite is, you won’t be leaving the supra table hungry. These feasts are famous for dishes literally piled on top of dishes, each containing another scrumptious taste of Georgian cuisine. They vary slightly depending on the region; for example, you’ll see plates of kubdari if you’re at a Svan supra and ghomi at a Megrelian table, but there are some standard ones to expect.
Cheese, bread, and pickles. Sulguni and Imeruli cheese piled high next to pickled cabbage and peppers and jonjoli, if you’re lucky, is a supra table staple. It comes with fresh shoti bread and sometimes steaming, spiced beans in a pot. You’ll be tempted to fill up on all of this goodness, but it’s advisable to save some space for later.
Khachapuri and pkhali. Expect khachapuri in all of its marvelous forms, like Imeretian, Megrulian, and eggy Adjarian. Enjoy it piping hot and plain, with a dash of tkemali (plum) sauce, or alongside pkhali. Pkhali are vegetable spreads mixed with walnuts, perfect for slathering on shoti or khachapuri.
Georgian salad. Traditional Georgian salad with ultra-ripe tomatoes, fresh cucumbers, and a splash of fine sunflower oil will always make an appearance at the supra table. It’s also a nice way to get a bit of a break from the heavier dishes.
Mtsvadi and kharcho. Pork or chicken mtsvadi is next. Georgians cook these meat dishes over an open flame, so the outside is charred and the inside is succulent. This dish pairs perfectly with tkemali. Kharcho is another meaty delicacy with rich walnut broth and chunks of beef.
Wine. Expect plenty of qvevri wine flowing throughout the meal. You might even find curved drinking horns and be invited to toast with one. Those who don’t consume alcohol can still have fun at the supra table. There are plenty of other beverages, including coffee, tea, sparkling water, and homemade juice or lemonade.
How you can enjoy a supra
There are plenty of companies in and around Tbilisi that offer supra experiences, including Eat This! Food & Wine Tours, whose authentic supra experience lets you dine with a local winemaker’s family, listen to a skilled tamada, and enjoy polyphonic singing. Wonder Tbilisi’s Georgian Supra offers a two-and-a-half-hour supra event in Tbilisi complete with a tamada, original food, and music, and Georgian Promenade combines the supra experience with a traditional cooking class.
There are also supra restaurants, like Ethno Tsiskvili and Restaurant Ethnograph, that prioritize authentic, solidly tasty cuisine and Georgian culture. We strongly advise you to book in advance, especially if you have a larger group.
Supra etiquette
Supras are all about fellowship and food, so you’re supposed to let loose and have a good time. These supra etiquette tips help you stay respectful of your hosts at the same time.
Tamadas emcee the night, timing the toasts, setting the tone, and keeping everyone on track. Don’t drink while the tamada is toasting; don’t interrupt them or attempt to tack onto their toast without permission. Many tamadas will open the floor after the main toasts are done, so you’ll likely get your chance later in the evening.
Don’t bring outside food or a dish to pass to a supra. The host will take care of the food and wine for the evening. It is appropriate to bring a small gift if you’d like, such as a bottle of wine to be opened later, chocolates, or something thoughtful for the home.
It’s okay to eat while the tamada is speaking, but you should avoid having side conversations. Instead, keep your attention on the tamada.
You can top up your neighbor’s wine, but don’t pour your own. Instead, wait until your glass is topped off. It will be quick and probably before you can even finish it.