Soaking through history: A guide to Tbilisi’s time-honored sulfur baths

During the frostiest winter days, Tbilisi has the cure for what ails you, whether it be a hearty, hot bowl of homemade kharcho or a spice-scented cup of glintwine in a cozy basement bar. Still, nothing quite restores the soul and pampers the skin like a steaming sulfur bath.

Tbilisi’s original sulfur baths date back to the 5th century, with the legendary story of King Vakhtang, who allegedly stumbled upon them when his falcon fell into a hot spring. The tragic end for King Vakhtang’s falcon was the glorious beginning of Tbilisi, named after the Georgian word tbili for “warm.” For centuries, the baths acted as a cultural and historical meeting point for locals and visitors, including merchants from Armenia and Persia who would often conduct business deals while basking in the healing waters. Luminaries like Alexandre Dumas and Anton Chekhov spent time at the sulfur baths, and Alexander Pushkin sang their praises in his poetry.

Bathhouses like Chreli Abano and King Erekle’s Sulfur Bath date back to the 17th century, so you’re quite literally immersing yourself in history when you visit. Gulo’s Thermal Spa, Royal Bath-House, and Sulphur Bathhouse No. 5 are all from the 19th century, and Bohema Sulfur Bath hails from the late 19th century to early 20th century. Each bathhouse has a rich history, gorgeous interior, and the therapeutic waters that have lured locals and passersby alike inside for countless years.

Visit Abantubani, Tbilisi’s famed bath district in the heart of Old Town, and you’ll find rows of bricked domes and a colorful, mosque-like building at the very end of the street. You’ve arrived at the soothing epicenter of Tbilisi’s best sulfur spas.

What is a Kisi scrub?

A kisi scrub is a traditional exfoliation treatment associated with Tbilisi’s sulfur bathhouses. Performed by an experienced attendant (mekise) after soaking in the warm sulfur water, the treatment involves a vigorous full-body scrub using a coarse mitt to remove dead skin and stimulate circulation. The process is brief but intensive, typically followed by a rinse and, in some cases, a soapy foam wash. Long embedded in local bathing culture, the kisi scrub is considered an essential part of the classic Abanotubani bathhouse experience, leaving the skin noticeably smoother and refreshed.

Chreli Abano

You can’t miss Chreli Abano, also known as Orbeliani Baths. It’s the brightly colored, sparkling building at the very end of Abano Street and the perfect high-end option for your luxurious spa day. This place is hopping, especially when the mercury dips low, so make your reservation in advance. You have your pick of several private rooms (there are no public baths), many of which include a sauna, cold plunge pool, shower and lounge area, bathroom, and steaming sulfur bath. Order a kisi scrub for 30 lari and have it right in the room, or choose from any number of additional spa services, like chocolate massages in their dedicated spa area. Chreli Abano is a one-stop shop, with a full menu of food, wine, and tea for an additional charge.

Gulo’s Thermal Spa

Gulo’s Thermal Spa is right off the strip, with a large parking lot and a super-friendly resident street dog that will immediately lift your spirits the moment you step inside. Rooms start at 150 GEL, and kisi scrubs are 20 lari, and you’ll find nice amenities like cold plunge pools, saunas, and beautifully tiled sulfur baths. One of the key factors that sets Gulo’s apart from the rest is the ambiance, which strikes a pleasant balance between modernity and traditional design, with intricate tile patterns and tastefully laid out rooms. 

Sulphur Bathhouse №5

Sulphur Bathhouse №5 is a personal favorite because I always have a consistently good experience. The kisi scrubs are fantastic, and you can choose between reasonably priced private rooms or the public bath experience. There’s a cooler full of beer, water, and lemonade as soon as you walk in, and you can also order tea with jam, which goes swimmingly with your hot bath—pun intended! Like Gulo’s Thermal Spa, the rooms here are full of fascinating tile patterns and artfully laid out relaxation areas, and it’s right on the main drag.

Bohema Sulfur Bath

If you’re in the mood for a romantic soak, Bohema Sulfur Bath is an inspired choice with fabulous tea service for ten lari and private rooms with charming artwork. Bohema’s claim to fame is that it’s the oldest bathhouse in the district, dating back to the 17th century.  Like others in the area, you can get a kisi massage. You can also get face and body treatments and Swedish massages. Bohema’s staff generally speak English and are polite and knowledgeable about what services they have on offer.

Royal Bath-House

Royal Bath-House is set back a bit from the road, so you could easily miss it. It’s worth looking for, though. This bathhouse has a charming, off-the-wall design, including a suit of armor that greets you as you descend into the reception area. There are no public baths here, but there are different private rooms, including one that can fit up to six people. Inside, you’ll find lovely stonework, traditional domes, and amenities like cold bucket showers, saunas, and, of course, deep sulfur baths that will take the chill off a cold February day.

King Erekle’s Sulfur Bath

King Erekle’s Sulfur Bath offers a more modern twist on the time-honored soak with more minimalist rooms ideal for gentle relaxation in a luxury setting. You’ll only find private rooms at this spot, and it’s a bit higher-priced than other options in the area, but the rooms are worth the splurge. In addition to the pleasant decor, you’ll find all the amenities you expect, like cold plunge pools and large sulfur baths in the rooms.

Notable mentions outside Abantubani

 Most of the baths are in the Abantubani district, but there are a few notable ones outside the district. Lisi Bath is a public and private option right near Lisi Lake in the city’s Saburtalo district. It offers a modern and economical experience, and its proximity to nature makes it an excellent choice for a post-hike treat. Kyiv Sulfur Spa is just a few kilometers from Abantubani, with tiled private rooms, cold bucket showers, saunas, and sulfur baths. Their tea service is exceptional.

Top tips for a smooth experience

These tips will help enhance your experience, smooth over any hiccups, and prepare you for a restorative and unique experience during your time in Tbilisi.

● You’ll need cash for your Kisi treatment, paying the attendant directly after the scrub.

● Book in advance on weekends, especially at popular spots like Chreli Abano.

● Bring your towel or be prepared to pay extra lari to rent on-site.

● People bathe nude in the public baths. While you can wear a suit if you so choose, prepare to see a lot of nudity.

● Avoid taking photos of bath attendants or in public spaces.

● Bring non-skid flip-flops for slippery floors.