Mtskheta: exploring Georgia’s ancient capital
Roughly half an hour north of Tbilisi, where the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers meet, is Mtskheta—a captivating ancient capital steeped in legend and history that was once Georgia’s seat of power. It was here that Saint Nino brought Orthodox Christianity to the royal family in the early fourth century, converting King Mirian III and Queen Nana and setting Georgia on the path to becoming one of the first Christian states in the world. For centuries, Mtskheta served as the spiritual heart of the country, and many of Georgia’s most important religious traditions and monuments trace their origins to the town.
There are no less than three UNESCO World Heritage sites in the former Georgian capital, including Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, one of the most sacred places in Georgian Christianity, and Jvari Monastery, which stands on the hill where Saint Nino is said to have erected a wooden cross overlooking the city. You can enjoy world-class food and wine ice cream on every charming, winding street. Mtskheta is an ideal day trip from Tbilisi, and it is incredibly easy to get to and get around once you are there.
What to see and do in Mtskheta
It is worth visiting Mtskheta just to wander through the fairytale streets, buy souvenirs like authentic Tush hats and curved wine horns, and sip a glass of wine in one of the city’s many courtyards. But you shouldn’t miss the priceless UNESCO World Heritage highlights too. The Jvari Monastery, Samtavro Convent, and Svetitskhoveli Cathedral give visitors a true taste of the cultural and religious significance of this city.
Take in the view from Jvari Monastery
As you are driving to Mtskheta, Jvari Monastery is impossible to miss. Sitting high on a hill above the city, it is clear that this site has profound religious significance and also likely acted as a strategic perch to spot threats before they reached the city. Jvari Monastery is believed to be the site of one of Saint Nino’s original crosses, and the imposing building continues to be a pilgrimage site today. Its elevated position also offers one of the most spectacular views in the region, overlooking the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers below.
From this vantage point, visitors can observe one of the area’s most striking natural phenomena: the meeting of the two differently colored waters of the Aragvi River. The lighter branch is glacially fed and flows from the Khevsureti Mountains, while the darker waters originate in the Truso Valley, where they take on their distinctive hue from the region’s mineral-rich landscape. The contrast between the two is clearly visible, making Jvari Monastery the ideal place to admire both Mtskheta’s spiritual heritage and its natural beauty.
Proper dress is required at Jvari Monastery, including covered shoulders and knees for men and women and covered hair for women, but there are scarves near the front entrance to borrow. Those who feel adventurous and ambitious can hike to the monastery, but you can also take a taxi to and from Mtskheta.
Stroll through the gardens of Samtavro Convent
The Samtavro Convent is in the center of Mtskheta and close to the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, another must-visit spot. This 4th-century nunnery is famous for its lovely gardens and peaceful atmosphere. Visitors can also pay their respects to Queen Nana and King Mirian III, who are buried here. Like Jvari Monastery, Samtavro Convent is a deeply religious and sacred space, so covering up and speaking in hushed voices while touring the gardens and convent interior is required.
Marvel at the grandeur of Svetitskhoveli Cathedral
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral is arguably the most impressive structure in Mtskheta, even eclipsing Jvari Monastery in scope and beauty. This massive cathedral is packed to the gills with gorgeous art and stonework, religious relics, and the graves of famous clergy and royal Georgians. Visitors can purchase small candles to light in various corners of the cathedral, marvel at the frescoes, and wander the exterior gardens.
Cool down with a scoop of wine ice cream
Wine ice cream is a delectable treat that you’ll discover all around Mtskheta. With its deep, pink hue and sweet, grapy flavor, it is the perfect snack on a hot summer day. You will find plenty of places selling this Georgian sweet and also more conventional ice cream flavors like vanilla on offer.
Trains, cars, and minibuses: getting to Mtskheta
You can take a direct train from Tbilisi Central Station, located right near the Station Square Metro and Deserter Bazaar. Since train cars fill up quickly, it is advisable to buy your tickets in advance at the official Georgian Railway site. Most trains do not offer food, so it is a good idea to bring your own for the quick journey. The Mtskheta train station is a brief walk from the city center, and there are also taxis at the ready for your convenience.
Minibuses (marshrutkas) are another economical and easy option. These shared transport vehicles leave from Didube station several times a day, and your ticket to ride costs just a few lari. You can also rent a car and drive to Mtskheta yourself.
